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What to do with all that pesky leftover duck

Our oldest son just made a trip to California, helping his half-brother move out to Camp Pendleton, his new duty station in the Marine Corps. I can’t sit here and tell you that I wasn’t jealous, because I most certainly was.
Visiting Carlsbad and Oceanside, Tyler was able to see where I lived/was stationed for well over three years back in the late 80s and early 90s when I myself was a young Marine. I’m glad that he had a chance to see it, and all I could think about was the true-blue Mexican food. Oh, the taco stands, sit-down restaurants and bars out there. But I don’t tell the full truth. I miss a whole lot more than that.
I haven’t set foot in Cali for over 25 years, but I still remember it like it was yesterday; the beaches, the waves, regular trips to Mexico, miserable runs in the foothills on Camp Pendleton, forced swims in the Pacific (it always humored me how much fun and how much misery one could have in this watery medium depending on the circumstance), and of course the scenery.
It was nothing to surf in the morning, enjoying a solid “Dawn Patrol” as it is referred to, skating in the latter parts of the morning and then heading up to Big Bear for a little skiing or snowboarding. To do that in Maryland entails 6 mm wetsuits, lots of hand warmers and no arthritis. It was much more manageable back then, and back there.
I’m pretty darned excited that Tyler is bringing me home a t-shirt from my favorite surf shop that is still open out there, Witt’s Carlsbad Pipeline. The crew was always laid back, helpful in all aspects of surfing and great surfers; it reminds me of Malibu’s on the boards in OC. I ran into the owner, Witt, a number of times at DMJs (Del Mar Jetties) on base, a great wave that was frequented by service members and civilians alike.
On other occasions we’d see such locals up at San Onofre, or Lower Trestles, which is one of Southern California’s legendary breaks. The way it would break on a solid day and wrap around (if you were willing to do a little extra paddling and pumping) into Church’s ensured a nice long ride and an exhilarating sunset session.
Back then, we would take advantage of deals through MWR (which is the Marine Corps’ Morale, Welfare and Recreation division) and rent one of the trailers on San O for some ridiculous sum like $50 a night. As the trailers would sleep about eight people (formally), we would naturally add about 10 more, so it cost us practically nothing to stay there all weekend, surf, cook, drink, sunbathe and otherwise frolic. I do so love that word: “frolic.” And frolic we did.
It was in Southern California during this time while I was serving that I moonlighted at the Oceanside Chart House, and it is also where I was introduced to some pretty interesting foods such as sea urchin, abalone and, well, duck. Really, you might be thinking? Yes, though I was raised in Maryland, duck wasn’t served at our family table when we were growing up, and in fact I never had it until I moved out west.
I fell in love with it and learned how to make some wonderful things out of it, ranging from Peking duck, duck confit, seared duck with a glace de cerise, chilled duck salad and of course duck wontons.
Whenever you have roasted duck or Peking duck leftovers (I mean, who doesn’t have Peking duck laying around on a daily basis?) there is no reason to let it go to waste, and this is one of my favorite things to do with it. And it is very easy to make.
The most important part about this is to seek out the correct hoisin sauce, which is made by Koon Chun. Once you have this in-hand, the rest is a piece of cake. Well, duck cake, that is.
And to think that it all started in California when Maryland is such a hotbed for waterfowl still amazes me. But sometimes, we just need that travel, that wanderlust, to help us grow in our minds and hearts.
Or it just takes orders. That happens, too.
Duck Wontons
Makes about 30 wontons
1 Tbsp. Sesame oil
1/4 cup carrots, fine diced
2 slices fresh ginger, finely minced
1 package Enoki mushrooms
1 egg, scrambled raw
Oil, for frying (or a fryer)
8 ounces Shredded roasted duck
30 Wonton wrappers

Heat oil and sauté carrots and ginger for three minutes
Add mushrooms and remove from heat, but keep in pan
Either shred the duck or dice it and combine with vegetable mixture
Lay out your wontons three at a time and brush with egg wash
Put duck mixture in the middle of the wontons
Seal them corner to corner to make triangles, ensuring that they are tightly sealed
Heat fryer to 350F
When ready to serve, fry the wontons until golden brown
Serve with that scrumptious sauce
Wonton Dipping Sauce
Makes about 1 cup
1/4 cup, plus 2 Tbsp. Koon Chun Hoisin sauce
1/4 cup soy sauce
2 Tbsp. Mirin
2 Tbsp. Sesame seeds

Combine all ingredients and rest for two hours