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Cuisine

Lobster is the right amount of self respect

I have two sides when it comes to lobster; the first says “Self, you have way too much self-respect to spend that sort of money on food.” Then the second side kicks in, as though mirroring the first from the other shoulder as you see portrayed in so many devil/angel skits on TV and in… Read more »

Discovering the best in liverwurst mousse

This column originally ran in an Aug. 21, 2014 edition of the Gazette When the sun rises on the last day of travel, we recognize as we open our eyes that we have to say goodbye to our impermanent abodes; the escape intended to inspire and refresh.  The destination typically meant to bring forth a… Read more »

Don’t skirt the issue; let them eat steak

steak cut up and potato in dish

I’m sitting in a small Latin restaurant in Hudson Valley, New York. At least that is how I feel as I read the menu at Our Harvest while grabbing a beer. It never ceases to amaze me how food can transport us back in time as it launches our memories that are triggered by certain… Read more »

Fresh, local ingredients set this BLT apart

Never one to do things the easy way, I decided to get a little exercise before a shift at the Reel Inn for White Marlin week. I figured that I would loosen up the ankles and the knees after the first two days behind the grill. The old joints were stiff, and it seemed like… Read more »

Sous vide or not sous vide, that’s the question

Oscar Wilde once wrote that life imitates art far more than art imitates life, a sound reversal of Aristotle’s millennia-old tenet. Standard irreverence on the part of Wilde, his simple statement (a part of a much grander piece) holds such a profound meaning for me this evening. Fiction is a powerful tool, and in the… Read more »

On Denny’s, road trips, Slim Jims and GMO

I am back from national convention and settled in to the point that I can truly reflect upon the past week-and-a-half of travelling, educational seminars, Disney World, four fidgety kids in the car, southern fireworks stands and chicken fried steaks at roadside Denny’s. I did not eat any of the latter simply because heavy food… Read more »

Grilled steak done well, not steak well done

Years ago I helped open a new restaurant. On the menu, we offered a dry-aged 10-ounce New York Strip for $42 and a 12-ounce CAB New York Strip for $26. We decided on the choice as many people would not want to spend that much on dinner. The soft openings went well, and it was… Read more »

Bacon jam key to ‘the best burger ever’

There is nothing quite like having a place that you can go to just to hang out and enjoy a beverage and a plate of food after a long day of work. No pressure; no incessant need to try to maintain any pretenses. Just you, a couple of bites of food and an ice-cold Narragansett…. Read more »

No punches pulled for this pulled pork

As my playlist jumps from Locash to Lagwagon, I ponder the many strange and wonderful things that happen in life. Who knows? Perhaps my musical taste is a metaphor for the ambiguity and freneticism that penetrate our everyday existence. If you could only know what is in my record collection (yes, I’m old enough to… Read more »

Your new food obsession: Marcona almonds

 Few foods find themselves fortunate enough to land in my “obsession” category these days, as I have tried a great many foodstuffs throughout my long and quasi-illustrious career. However, every now and then a food will rear its ugly head and smack me in the body and soul with its self-complementing tastes, smells and textures… Read more »