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Cuisine

Sour notes, for lemon tarts, are good things

Good old English curd. As tart and sharp as British wit, and as subtle and demure as a lonely seaside village. There is something mystical about a good curd that I was not privy to until a mere five years ago. Quite frankly, I never gave a rat’s tail end about the stuff, and I… Read more »

In ‘world gone mad,’ food can be comfort

Lemmy and David Bowie are dead, the market is crashing, OPEC is holding secret meetings, Iran has detained 10 of our sailors, and watching the news is akin to watching the psycho-thriller movies of the ’80s. Do you remember those flicks; the ones that we always thought we’d never live to see? I guess we… Read more »

Et tu Brute? Try this recipe for Caesar salad

Caesar salad. Wow. Where to begin? It was November, 1984. It wasn’t long after I earned my license and started working my first job in Annapolis, the Chart House. But it was the first time that I had experienced one of the truest food-loves of my life; the salad eponymous with the man stabbed on… Read more »

Bone marrow crucial part of serious BBQ

A couple of years ago I spent almost a week in Kansas City, where I lived in a perpetual state of the “meat sweats.” Between Oklahoma Joe’s BBQ, Anton’s Taproom & Steakhouse and Town-Topic burgers (where they cook the fries and burgers in lard), we spent enough time in meat joints to find ourselves on… Read more »

Pork: your New Year’s Day picker-upper

Reprinted from Dec. 26, 2013 Time marches on and the present is no different from any other in terms of paltry temporal matters.   We are once again fortunate enough to be ringing in a new year and in a couple days someone out there will have a monstrous hangover as a result of their… Read more »

‘Snow time like present to steam shrimp

Really? The middle of December and I’m wearing shorts and flip-flops? I could get used to this, but I certainly know that it isn’t going to last. The cold weather will move back in, and I will have to retreat back into my jeans and sweatshirts, but boy this sure feels fantastic. I was speaking… Read more »

Nothing horrific about smoked bluefish

There’s nothing quite like watching the babysitter getting killed by a dead 4-year old while you’re trying to write a scintillating article about smoked seafood. Yes, that is exactly what is happening at midnight as I try to compose a most-enticing piece of culinary literature that would encourage you to actually stop what you’re doing… Read more »

‘Perfectionist’ garlic puree perfects chicken

Years ago I was reading Chelminski’s “The Perfectionist: Life and Death in Haute Cuisine,” the tragic rise and fall of real-life chef Bernard Loiseau (a contemporary of Paul Bocuse who took his own life when rumors circulated that he was about to lose a Michelin star). I was bemused throughout the story, as I knew… Read more »

When it comes to KC barbecue, trust Pokey

It’s hard for me to even remember what I’ve written about and what has eluded the clicking of keys under-hand. I feel that I have so much to say, but that so very much of it is uninteresting. I know my stories drive my kids insane, and I often get the courtesy laugh paired with… Read more »

Try this tart-sweet pickled shrimp appetizer

“Quelle surprise.” That’s all that I could muster when the doctor told me that I had been working through pneumonia for the past week. Oh, the mistakes of stubborn and stupid men. I tend to convince myself that I can magically make a random head cold go away; then, when it turns into bronchitis, I… Read more »