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Cuisine - Articles

Yes, you can… roll your sandwich in a pizza

Posted On: 11/8/12
Written By: Paul Suplee, CEC PCIII

Yes, you can… roll your sandwich in a pizza  Sometimes trying to cook for my own children is reminiscent of the opening scene of “Eat Drink Man Woman,” a 1994 Taiwanese film in which a widower lives with his three full-grown daughters. The family ritual calls for an elaborate dinner every Sunday evening, with the father (a highly trained chef) spending countless hours in the kitchen beforehand. When dinner is served, a much more elaborate spread than I have ever given my family short of our Thanksgiving annual assault, the three daughters merely wince “politely” and critique the meal, sharing their feelings freely on what could have been done to better the meal. Now, my kids may not be as critical of my work as the three heroines, but I do laugh every time that I see the movie, as it reminds me that children are fickle beasts, and some things shall forever remain a mystery. It is a common trick of ours to tell the kids that Mom made the chicken teriyaki when, in fact, I was the artisan in charge ...
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The elusive kataifi dough now found locally

Posted On: 11/1/12
Written By: Paul Suplee, CEC PCIII

The elusive kataifi dough now found locally The only thing more satisfying than teaching people how to cook is doing so with ingredients that are easily and locally procurable, once you know where to look. I have to admit that this is one of the complaints that I get on my column from time to time — I explain a technique or dish that simply can’t be recreated by a reader without a trip to the finer markets in the city. And by “city” I don’t mean Salisbury or Berlin. It is important for people in love with food to explore products with which they have never worked. They need to play with their food. This is how one grows his or her repertoire, a common theme in my writings. And the larger your repertoire, the smaller the world. I guess Disney got that one right, after all. In what seems like a different life, I worked at Michel Richard’s Citronelle during its short tenure on the top floor of the Latham Hotel in Baltimore. I was an expediter, so I was in the kitchen regularly. Among other thi...
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This is the meal that never ends. Yes, it goes on...

Posted On: 10/25/12
Written By: Paul Suplee, CEC, PCIII

This is the meal that never ends. Yes, it goes on... Oh, rapturous joy, a sunny and eighty degree day here on the Shore. I imagine it is one of the very last we shall see on our doorstep until May, but I will take it without an ounce of remorse. When the weather is warmer, we tend to think of cooling foods, and now that the days are getting a tad bit chillier as time goes on, our thoughts sway to the hardy foods — foods that satiate and placate our hunger while giving us fuel to perform whatever duties may lay ahead of us. I, for one, am glad that one of my favorite foods is also one that lends itself well to the cooler month menus: lamb. With a taste that is a touch gamier or richer than beef, it is not a sought after choice by many a carnivore. Personally, I am glad I’m the only one in the house who enjoys lamb. That simply means that on “lamb day,” there is more for me. The lamb holds a special place in many cultures around the globe, and I am still surprised that so many Americans don’t c...
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Renovate dinner with some tricked-out garnishes

Posted On: 10/18/12
Written By: Paul Suplee

Renovate dinner with some tricked-out garnishes  It's time to go over my article checklist: Lie to faithful reader about writing an article on bratwurst. Check. Supplant with sarcastic checklist to open my magnum opus. Check. Finish submitting grades for the early semester. Check. Install French patio door with no formal carpentry training. Check. Actually have aforementioned door open and close with little effort and lock securely. Check. Make presentation for the early class. Check. Watch Disney's Christmas Carol with the tyke while I write my weekly tirade. Check. We have lived in our house for 13 years, and it never ceases to amaze me how much we have accomplished in renovating the beast. It is nigh impossible to enter a room without thinking about either the work we've done or that which needs be completed. In fact, when I installed the door tonight, I mused to my wife that the molding, caulk, sill board and every other detail would be complete in approximately 18 months, the average project time for any...
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Deter shellfish-loving vampires, with this dish

Posted On: 10/11/12
Written By: Paul Suplee, CEC PCIII

Deter shellfish-loving vampires, with this dish King Ken recently reproached me at the hardware store for not writing enough about German food. I immediately started thinking about German food and then thought to myself, “Ken, I’m not going to do it.” True, he remains the unchallenged champion of the fruitcake championship, but today is not a good day for me to write about Wiener schnitzel (written about it), sauerbraten (written about it), German soft pretzels (written about it) or bratwurst. Come to think of it, I don’t believe I have written about brats in more than 400 articles. How did that happen? I cannot worry about that today. I am focused (inner-chortle) on being well-planted into the months that end in an “r.” We have all heard the saying that you should only eat oysters in months that own an “r,” but let me ask you one question: did you by any chance notice any oysters on the menu around town this summer? I bet you did. As it is difficu...
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Eat like a caveman, even when out of dinosaur

Posted On: 10/4/12
Written By: By Paul Suplee, CEC PCIII

Eat like a caveman, even when out of dinosaur “Munga, munga. Gingu.” Or so the caveman would have said thousands of years ago as he foraged and hunted his way to a presumably healthy table and I imagine that by “table” I mean rock. Yes, I am referring to the Paleo Diet, a newly popularized food fashion in a very long line of dietary devices. The Atkins diet, Tom Venuto’s “Burn the Fat,” Feed the Muscle, high-carb/high-intensity cardio, endurance regimens, Insanity, P90X and even Richard Simmons are all presumably “right” in helping one to attain leanness and meanness. The choice of diets is as staggering as one’s choice of world religion among the thousands out there, but that is for another conversation altogether. No, for now I just want to investigate and learn about all things Paleo. A local gym owner peaked my curiosity today and as an old friend of mine had talked to me about it at length at one point, I figured I could at the very least check it out for myself...
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Yucca balls, a great conversation starter

Posted On: 9/20/12
Written By: Paul Suplee, CEC PCIII

Yucca balls, a great conversation starter  Only two more weekends and then I can almost take a deep breath.  The season has wound down and we are now into the nitty gritty details of end-of-season cleaning, closing and planning for next year. With so much going on around us, and with the holidays rapidly approaching (Yes, I said it) it is time to hammer out a game plan to survive the next three months. By the end,  I will have a semester under my belt as a college professor and will be enjoying the holidays. One of the greatest parts of my job is that I can focus on the curriculum, delving into the materials as I had hoped that I could. I have already completed one class and with five more to go this semester, I am enjoying the concentrations: Healthy cooking, International, American Regional, Introduction to Food Preparation and Desserts & Pastries. It is a heavy load, But what I love most is that I can concentrate on the subject matter.  On New England day, we studied and cooked the days of New E...
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Eat crab legs to celebrate the start of school

Posted On: 8/31/12
Written By: By Paul Suplee, CEC PCIII

What a week it has been. The good news is, the kids are back in school and summer is almost over (good for those of us in the business). The bad news is … well, it’s what everyone’s been talking about. Scunny was a legend; hell, he is a legend. His is a tale that will be told for years to come. With a heart as big as the ocean, the man could find plenty of time to play his trademark role. Whether it was Scunny and Egg in front of the Greene Turtle during a snowstorm in their birthday suits (antiquated evidence forthcoming but not verified) or posing as a health inspector and scaring the living crap out of local chefs, he always seemed up for a good laugh. But then there was the other side. I remember the first year I worked for him in Baltimore. He confided in me how much money he put in his pocket the first year Nacho’s was open. He wasn’t bragging. On the contrary, he was very matter-of-fact when he told me that it was only after having given back t...
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Salmon so good, people will be quoting the recipe

Posted On: 8/23/12
Written By: By Paul Suplee, CEC PCIII

I don't know what's wrong with me.  I recall random movie quotes or lines from books and plays at the strangest of times; almost all of the time.  I guess that makes my life a touch strange. Maybe I see the relevance of such quotation while I regurgitate, always seeming to find such aforementioned quotes to be a propos; whether they are or not is often subject to review and opinion. Shakespeare is oft heard from my mouth and inked from my pen.  I am no scholar but the Shakespearean Literature courses I endured in college still remain among my favorites. At other times I might be reminiscing Emerson or Bukowski (as diametrically opposed as lamb chops and vegans) recalled from previous readings.   Now, for no particular reason, I find myself remembering Steven Spielberg's Amazing Stories, a short series from the 1980's. In one shockingly poignant albeit inane short entitled Hell Toupee, the antagonist is a rather annoying murderous hairpiece.  Our faithful p...
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Step aside seafood, it’s time for steak night

Posted On: 8/9/12
Written By: Paul G. Suplee CEC, PC III

Step aside seafood, it’s time for steak night As the excitement mounts over the White Marlin Open, fishermen and onlookers alike are flocking to 14th Street to watch the weigh-ins along the Reel Inn docks. On the first day of the tournament, only 10 out of 250 (+/- 4 percent for statistical accuracy) boats actually fished on Monday so the event was non-existent. We are just glad that no one told the spectators. As the kitchen and bar employees crawled their way through the day, the conversation was constantly on how many people there were at the Reel Inn. They were everywhere. Even with such a tiny fleet fishing, the crowds came out to see that one big fish. As such, they’ll have to come back for the rest of the tourney in order to get a good view of one of the trophy fish that will unwittingly find themselves on the scale. Now, as I wrote last week, the fish that we go through the most during the White Marlin Open is tuna, not marlin. Tuna. And lots of it. But I can’t always write about seafood so I n...
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