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Cuisine

Cuisine - Articles


Best-laid plans often don’t go as planned

Posted On: 3/10/16
Written By: Paul Suplee, CEC PCIII

Best-laid plans often don’t go as planned I love it when a plan comes together, and sometimes it’s even enjoyable when the plan does not in fact go – well – as planned. In the words of the early chef Antonin Careme, “The recipe that I am going to sketch for you here is quick and simple: my life has not gone quite as planned.” Profound words from a man who would pass at the relatively young age of 48; but he would part ways with mother earth as a man who would change the landscape of Western cooking forever. In his few years on this earth, Careme managed to cook for kings, queens and czars, all while being able to codify an antiquated and disorganized system of professional and guild cooking. And to think that he did it all without once falling on his own sword. While my short tale is certainly not as dramatic or intriguing as Careme’s, it does go to show you that the best laid schemes of mice and men go often askew, or so sayeth Careme’s Scottish ...
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Blackened salmon with mushroom risotto

Posted On: 2/25/16
Written By: Paul Suplee, CEC PCIII

Blackened salmon with mushroom risotto Reprinted from Bayside Gazette Feb. 25, 2015 issue Sometimes I feel like I just need to slow down a bit. With all the extracurricular activities with the kids, work, writing, snapping pictures and trying to keep the house straight, I don’t get much sleep. Now that the season is creeping up on us, I’m also looking for summer employment or maybe even considering a summer business venture of my own. My mind is like a constantly spinning hamster wheel: sometimes there’s an idea running rampant on it while, more often than not, the wheel spins empty It’s a vacuum in which not much intellectual stimulation is happening. But, I’ve come to accept that. When life gets in the way, we tend to migrate to prepackaged foods, fast food garbage or any of the myriad convenience products that we could get our mitts on.  But, the kids were the ones who say, “Enough, Dad.  We need some fresh food.” That’s all that I needed to hear, so I set out...
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Pot stickers only limited by imagination

Posted On: 2/18/16
Written By: Paul Suplee, CEC PCIII

Pot stickers only limited by imagination As I sit here looking at the maddening schedule that comprises my spring semester, I realize just how much I look forward to summertime. The flurry of student activities, classes, extracurricular events and networking events leaves no time to slow down; no rest for the weary, as it were … Or at least unless it snows, or more to the point, “snow-rains” or “snains,” as it has a number of times recently. Expecting to go into work a couple hours late on Monday, I was surprised to learn that the college was closed, so losing no time we donned our snow bibs, gloves and hats in order to have one more snowball fight. Who knows? Maybe that will be the last one of the year. Regardless, we were happy to imbibe in the snowy slaughter before the rain set in. We were fortunate enough to build yet another snowman taller than my two younger kids before it was rapidly reduced to one big ice ball on Monday. I know we have been fortunate for the past few years with real s...
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Grass-fed hamburger, served ‘super-rad’

Posted On: 2/11/16
Written By: By Paul Suplee, CEC PCIII

Grass-fed hamburger, served ‘super-rad’ In sharing a few drinks in Milwaukee this weekend among family and new friends, a bike messenger from Chicago (a friend of my cousin) summed it up the best when he lifted up his pint and said “adulting sucks.” This was verily the sentiment in the room as we were celebrating the life of my cousin Taj, a soul gone way too young. Taj was gregarious, spontaneous and exuberant in his love for glam rock, a lifestyle that he lived from the 80’s until the very end. With his pink hair, broad smile and bear hugs, there was just something about the guy that you couldn’t help but to love. He never pretended to be anything that he wasn’t, but as we all know, we don’t get to pick and choose when our loved ones move on, and this was certainly no exception. At the wake, the priest gave his opening remarks and then my cousin Debbie read a passage. After that, people came to the podium to speak their mind, and that is indeed when the party began. I can honestly say...
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‘Immerse’ yourself in new way of cooking

Posted On: 2/4/16
Written By: Paul Suplee, CEC PCIII

‘Immerse’ yourself in new way of cooking One of the great joys of being a professor in culinary arts lies in inviting guest speakers; it’s important to get students in front of other people in the industry in the hopes that they branch out when they head into their journey. This week we were honored to host Daniel Liberson of Virginia’s Lindera Farms, and local vinegar hobbyist Chef Chett Bland (he’s the brains behind setting up the workshop in the first place). A young company that now services the likes of Daniel Boulud, Thomas Keller and Jose Andres, Lindera is the brainchild of the quintessential cook-turned-farmer-turned- producer Daniel [Liberson] and is housed at the farm in Northern Virginia. And his vinegars are good; damn good. In his presentation, Liberson talked about what it takes to forage for ingredients, namely the safety aspects thereof, and the basics on how to make your own vinegars. There were no recipes, but he encouraged students to go out and explore the possibilities of the ubiquit...
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Sour notes, for lemon tarts, are good things

Posted On: 1/21/16
Written By: By Paul Suplee, CEC PCIII

Sour notes, for lemon tarts, are good things Good old English curd. As tart and sharp as British wit, and as subtle and demure as a lonely seaside village. There is something mystical about a good curd that I was not privy to until a mere five years ago. Quite frankly, I never gave a rat’s tail end about the stuff, and I lay blame on ill-prepared lemon meringue pies that I had to suffer through in my childhood. To be clear, I now adore lemon meringue pies, as long as two conditions are met. One, the curd filling must be tart. The meringue will be sweet enough to counter the tartness, and nothing makes a lemon meringue pie fall flat on its face faster than “meh” on “meh.” When the contrasting of the uber-sweet meringue takes the edge off of the tart curd, I’m a happy man. Two, please oh please cook your meringue (Italian meringue). Nothing ruins a meringue pie more for me than an aftertaste that just reeks of raw egg whites. I can’t stand it. OK, the rant is over. And I’m not eve...
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In ‘world gone mad,’ food can be comfort

Posted On: 1/14/16
Written By: By Paul Suplee, CEC PCIII

In ‘world gone mad,’ food can be comfort Lemmy and David Bowie are dead, the market is crashing, OPEC is holding secret meetings, Iran has detained 10 of our sailors, and watching the news is akin to watching the psycho-thriller movies of the ’80s. Do you remember those flicks; the ones that we always thought we’d never live to see? I guess we were wrong, but then reminiscing the way we dressed and wore our hair in the ‘80s, we were wrong about a lot of things. What in the world is going on? Is this the “new normal?” In a world-gone-mad, it’s nice to know that we can look around us and see the good if we choose to do so. I see it every day in the faces of my cats (even the “Evil One”), the swagger of my aging dog, the triumphs of my children and the strength of my wife. I can be in the worst mood, which is only exacerbated by any of the news stations out their – take your choice, they’re all pretty much the same – but I turn around pretty quickly when I see ...
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Et tu Brute? Try this recipe for Caesar salad

Posted On: 1/7/16
Written By: By Paul Suplee, CEC PCIII

Et tu Brute? Try this recipe for Caesar salad Caesar salad. Wow. Where to begin? It was November, 1984. It wasn’t long after I earned my license and started working my first job in Annapolis, the Chart House. But it was the first time that I had experienced one of the truest food-loves of my life; the salad eponymous with the man stabbed on the Ides of March by Brutus himself. The school year was dragging on, despite the fact that we had only been in session for a mere three months. You see, I hated school – with a passion. I was not a good student until I spent some time in the Marine Corps and realized that there just might be something else out there … or maybe it was the constant prodding and nagging of my well-meaning late mother, but I digress. My brother Danny and I had been afforded the opportunity to join our parents in Florida at the Barefoot Mailman, an interesting oceanfront inn that looked as though it was going to provide shelter for the week. But Mother Nature had different plans. Danny and I s...
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Bone marrow crucial part of serious BBQ

Posted On: 12/30/15
Written By: Paul Suplee, CEC PCIII

Bone marrow crucial part of serious BBQ A couple of years ago I spent almost a week in Kansas City, where I lived in a perpetual state of the “meat sweats.” Between Oklahoma Joe’s BBQ, Anton’s Taproom & Steakhouse and Town-Topic burgers (where they cook the fries and burgers in lard), we spent enough time in meat joints to find ourselves on a perpetual quest for better meat than the day before. At Anton’s, I was lucky enough to have bone marrow for the first time in years. After braised pork belly and two-inch thick rib eyes the night before, an order of bone marrow at the bar with a glass of Prosecco was in order. There is something so special about roasted marrow bones, and admittedly, there are always a few stares as the bones arise from the kitchen and are sat in front of you. And so it was as my wife and I ate at Char, the yacht club’s monthly steakhouse concept spearheaded by Chef Tim Ulrich, a friend of mine with whom I have eaten my fair share of steaks. When Tim was the exec...
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Pork: your New Year’s Day picker-upper

Posted On: 12/23/15
Written By: Paul Suplee, CEC PCIII

Pork: your New Year’s Day picker-upper Reprinted from Dec. 26, 2013 Time marches on and the present is no different from any other in terms of paltry temporal matters.   We are once again fortunate enough to be ringing in a new year and in a couple days someone out there will have a monstrous hangover as a result of their personal neglect.   No amount of Alka Seltzer or hair of the dog will quell the headaches, the shaky legs and grumbling stomach; it is up to the cook - the culinary alchemist - to settle the illness on day one of the year to come.   Of course, the easiest way to avoid a hangover is to not drink at all, but I quit the Temperance Union decades ago, hence I don’t even own my soapbox anymore.  They recalled it. Suffice it to say that today’s dish will make do for anyone who likes pork, but as luck would have it, this traditional Pennsylvania Dutch New Year’s supper also happens to be a great picker-upper for the partygoer, and it works great if you decide to have an e...
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