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Make your gnocchi and forget packaged product

The funny thing about the holiday season is that the cold weather comes along with it. We wouldn’t have many pretty post cards without a fresh coating of snow on the holly trees, but it is cold nonetheless.  
Might we be subjected to seven feet of snow? I certainly hope not; my cutoff is somewhere around two feet, with a foot being the perfect amount of fresh powder. But as I have kvetched about in the past, I’ll take snow over freezing rain any day, but I ramble.
Accompanying this crisp weather is the urge to cook rich, warming and simple foods. After all, nothing makes the diner’s heart happier than butter and wine, and nothing makes the cook’s heart happier than a simple meal.  
Now that I’m throwing this around, maybe some potatoes, flour, eggs and herbs can be kicked around for giggles. What else do we need to make us happy? I mean, maybe a glass of chardonnay to accompany what we are about to eat, but other than that, what do we need?
OK, so maybe there’s family and friends. We all know that in reality, they are all we need to make us happy, but for the sake of argument, you can do a lot of fantastic things with the aforementioned list of goodies.
Going through my mental Rolodex last night, all while looking at the food in my kitchen, I recalled the potato gnocchi that I used to make in various restaurants. It can be a fickle beast but when done correctly, it is a sublime dish that you will never buy packaged again.  
Please do not give up after your first failed attempt, and it might be just that; mine was, with the little things exploding as they hit the simmering water. Much like making bread, there is a skill to making a good gnocchi that comes with time, practice and attention.
The secret is all in the potato, and don’t limit yourself to just one. Russets are the old standby and sweet potatoes make a divine gnocchi, especially when served with a salty maple butter, but let’s not get ahead of ourselves.
The simple trick for making a great gnocchi is to bake the potatoes instead of boiling them. You want as little water in the spuds as possible. There is plenty of water in the eggs. Consider this the ‘spaetzle’ of the Italians (of course I know I’m getting emails on that one, as I shouldn’t compare the two at all).
One accoutrement that I’ve always enjoyed on fresh gnocchi is brown butter, that nutty and rich sauce of great simplicity that elevates many dishes to an entirely new level.
Since I still have plenty of fresh herbs on the back deck despite the recent freeze, I hopped out to grab some parsley, thyme and oregano. Giving them a quick rinse, I was replete to make a great little dish that my toughest critic, my wife, adored. I love it when food hits the spot as it were, and this is comfort food at its finest.
The secret to the brown butter is to add half of the fresh herbs just as you pull it off of the heat. Frying them in this manner infuses the flavors into the butter’s fat, and when you finish it with some fresh herbs, it will be a match that is otherwise unparalleled.  
As we go into the Thanksgiving holiday, and we all know that this means that the holidays are following close behind, this is a nice addition to any menu. Yes, I would even serve this on the Thanksgiving table as though what we already have isn’t quite enough. But whatever you do, do not forego the brown butter, or the wine. It’s all in a cold day’s work.
 
Russet Gnocchi
4 Russet potatoes, baked and still hot
2 eggs
Bread flour as needed
Salt and pepper to taste
• It’s important to start with baked potatoes that are still hot. Run them through a food mill or ricer so that they are nice an mashed/fluffy
• Place in a stand mixer with a dough hook and add the eggs
• Add the flour 2 Tbsp. at a time until the dough becomes firm but still sticky
• Finish kneading on a cutting board with some flour and roll into ½-inch cylinders
• Cut pieces about ¾-inch long and use the tines of a fork to create the classic gnocchi shape. Of course if you have a gnocchi board, please feel free to use that!
• Bring a pot of salted water to a high simmer and cook the gnocchi for about three minutes, or until cooked through
 • Strain and toss with the brown butter and herbs. Serve hot
 
Brown Butter
¼ pound whole butter, unsalted
Fresh herbs (parsley and thyme are perfect)
salt and pepper to taste
• Heat the butter in a small saucepan until it melts. Skim the foam off the top and cook until the stuff at the bottom turns brown. Don’t let it burn!
• Remove from heat and strain through cheesecloth or a coffee filter. Set aside until ready to use.