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Cuisine - Articles

‘Perfectionist’ garlic puree perfects chicken

Posted On: 11/19/15
Written By: Paul Suplee, CEC PCIII

Years ago I was reading Chelminski’s “The Perfectionist: Life and Death in Haute Cuisine,” the tragic rise and fall of real-life chef Bernard Loiseau (a contemporary of Paul Bocuse who took his own life when rumors circulated that he was about to lose a Michelin star). I was bemused throughout the story, as I knew the ending all too well; Loiseau was a hero in the nouveau cuisine movement. How could he do this? Trudging through the book, the reader experiences the highs and lows of haute cuisine and the dangers affiliated with such staunch reliance on a rating system. Though I haven’t seen the movie Burnt yet, I have been told, and I have read, that it fairly portrays life in the higher end of the culinary arts. But for now, I’ll just stick to the other end of the spectrum; what I call ‘food truck’ cuisine. Make no mistake. There is nothing worse for the wear in this genre of cooking. In fact this is the food that I like to make and eat on a ...
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When it comes to KC barbecue, trust Pokey

Posted On: 11/5/15
Written By: Paul Suplee, CEC PCIII

When it comes to KC barbecue, trust Pokey It’s hard for me to even remember what I’ve written about and what has eluded the clicking of keys under-hand. I feel that I have so much to say, but that so very much of it is uninteresting. I know my stories drive my kids insane, and I often get the courtesy laugh paired with deep sigh from my amazing wife, much in the same way that my Aunt Naomi shrugs and rolls her eyes when Uncle Tom gets on a roll of puns. I guess it’s in the blood and I have learned not to fight it too terribly much. After all, as we get older, we start feeling the finality of life around us and it thus becomes our responsibility to keep our family memories alive, generation after generation. For one, my nickname as a child was Pokey; a gift from my father still used by some of my siblings at holiday-time. I much prefer Pokey to Pablo and Pauly, so feel free to use it if you like. Another memory that brings great joy to me is travel. In our childhood, we saw a great deal of this country, fr...
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Try this tart-sweet pickled shrimp appetizer

Posted On: 10/29/15
Written By: Paul Suplee, CEC PCIII

Try this tart-sweet pickled shrimp appetizer “Quelle surprise.” That’s all that I could muster when the doctor told me that I had been working through pneumonia for the past week. Oh, the mistakes of stubborn and stupid men. I tend to convince myself that I can magically make a random head cold go away; then, when it turns into bronchitis, I always figure I’ll give it just one more day to save the time and money related to a doctor’s appointment. And then, when I just can’t take it anymore, I go to see the people who actually know what they’re talking about. Alas, this is when I get the news that I don’t want, but that so far hasn’t been too devastating. I guess now that I’m in my late-forties, it’s time to start taking occurrences like this a little more seriously, as this is when you start hearing about people who aren’t so lucky as to escape with a simple nebulizer treatment and some antibiotic shots. I count my lucky stars every day that my poor decisi...
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Pineapple salsa cools off jerk skewers

Posted On: 10/15/15
Written By: Paul Suplee, CEC PCIII

Pineapple salsa cools off jerk skewers I have had one hell of a day. After an eventful day at school, to say the least, during which students argued and then studied and cooked foods of Florida, it was time to spend an hour on the phone with my cousin who wants to move to Ocean City from Wisconsin. Getting a restaurant job in the wintertime. I had to let him down gently that this might not, in fact, actually happen as planned. I mean; after all, I have colleagues who are looking for work in the winter, and they’re locals. When the city makes money a hundred days a year, it’s hard for anyone to find off-season gigs, but I digress. After a quick sprucing-up after going home for all of two minutes, it was off to a friend’s ribbon cutting ceremony in West Ocean City. Dana Bartholomew and Kyle Hughes opened their new studio in Teal Marsh Shopping Center, and what a great time that was. We love Dana’s photography, and meeting Kyle for the first time was great and their studio looks awesome. Who doesnR...
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Forget myth; oysters are always in season

Posted On: 10/1/15
Written By: Paul Suplee, CEC PCIII

Forget myth; oysters are always in season Oysters; one of the many bounties of the Chesapeake. Mysterious mollusks whose introduction to the human race was probably at the hands of a river otter banging one open on its chest. I don’t know that this particular version of history is completely accurate, but I’m sure that however it happened, it was a very long time ago. Either way, oysters are delicious almost anytime, anywhere, or at least that is exactly what oyster lovers such as myself are fond of saying. But, isn’t there a catch, you might ask? Well there is, or at least that’s what old-wives-tales would have you believe. Have you ever heard the saying that you can’t eat oysters during months that don’t end in the letter “r”? While I have heard this since 1983, it didn’t cross my mind for years how we were still selling oysters in Annapolis during the summer by the wheelbarrow-full and we’re still doing it today. But, how can that be? You see, red tide is an awf...
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For perfect pasta, ‘00’ flour essential

Posted On: 9/24/15
Written By: Paul Suplee, PC CECIII

For perfect pasta, ‘00’ flour essential REPRINTED FROM SEPT. 25, 2014 There are times when something just strikes my fancy and today marked one of those spells. Walking through the kitchen after straightening out the walk-in, I remembered my days in   Baltimore, cooking in some good restaurants. One such place was the Polo Grill by Johns Hopkins University. The chef was very talented and the menu changed daily, a task that I personally would never undertake in an a la carte facility. We learned some great techniques at The Polo Grill and as I reminisced, I realized that I had not made squid ink pasta in years. Recalling that I now had the aforementioned cephalopod-goo on hand, it became a no-brainer. It was time to play. So, grabbing the 00 Flour and the squid ink, I headed for the nearest stand mixer. The flour is a special, finely ground product that lends itself well to pasta. If you make fresh pasta as much as I do, you will immediately tell the difference as the pasta from 00 flour will be tender and have a...
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‘Old Dough’ goes great on grilled pizza

Posted On: 9/10/15
Written By: Paul Suplee, CEC PCIII

‘Old Dough’ goes great on grilled pizza The kids are back in school, the grilling season is over for most (bite your tongue), and as I’m fond of saying, it’s now time to start getting ready for next summer! My wife and kids are thrilled that the season of the pumpkin is among us, and I guess to a certain extent I’m pretty excited for the treats that come to us in the fall. Pumpkin ‘everything’ from latte to coffee to pie to cookies to cakes to cake pops to white-chocolate truffles to… I just went into sugar overload just writing that. Shaking myself out of my hypochondriacal diabetic fit, I get back to the task at hand, which is having a little fun making a special treat on the grill; grilled pizza. I wrote about grilled Piadina years ago, the little Italian sandwich squeezed in a mini-grilled pizza crust, and this is just the grown-up version. Simply make some pizza dough (preferably well- ahead of time) and roll it out. Here comes the tricky part, but after you do it a few times, y...
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Bacon-wrapped hot dogs are home runs

Posted On: 9/3/15
Written By: Paul Suplee, PC CEC III

Bacon-wrapped hot dogs are home runs Our house is full of children tonight, and there is a nervous laughter in the air. Sleepovers always end up in total mayhem around here, but tonight has hit the kids like a freight train. Rather, the realization that next week the pain train will be rolling down the track at full speed. School starts next week, you see, which makes this week one of the least favorite in our house. With the school year comes a frenzy of maddening schedules, oft-conflicting, and participation in myriad clubs and associations that we don’t even know exist as of yet. “Wait, you signed up for what? And they meet when?” will be a common phrase next week. But somehow we will manage to pull the schedules together and quickly (and against our wills) start treating every day in the manner in which I wrote about a few years ago. Every day in the school year feels like prepping for a military insertion exercise. We know our windows of opportunity, we understand our mission and goals, and nine t...
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Overcooking fresh fish akin to crime

Posted On: 8/20/15
Written By: Paul Suplee, CEC PC III

Overcooking fresh fish akin to crime Suffering from a bit of jet lag this week, I am trying to get back in the groove.  Understanding that I am on east coast time and that I’m back at work, there is no excuse for not getting up on time. But, there have been a couple days where the kids and I have slept until noon, a strange occurrence in our house. Getting ready for the school year is always an interesting task; adding new projects and tweaking existing ones all add up to keep a person on their toes. And the time goes by way too quickly. Mix in a little time zone discrepancy and it becomes easy to see how one’s schedule could get a little messed up. Wanting to not let go of our Hawaiian experience, I made a big batch of chicken barbecue and Kalua pork, the latter being a shredded pork with (don’t judge me) liquid smoke. Now, I smoke a great deal of pork product throughout the year, but every time that I have eaten Kalua pork in the Islands, it has been made with liquid smoke, so I try to keep it t...
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Chef envisions perfect day for breadfruit

Posted On: 8/13/15
Written By: Paul Suplee, CEC PCIII

Chef envisions perfect day for breadfruit I sat on my board off of Poi’pu in Kauai County, soaking it all in while waiting for a set to come in. This was my first time to the South Shore and in fact our first time to this island and so far it has not disappointed. Typical to Kauai was the tropical sunshine to the east and a torrential downpour to the west; a mere six feet away from me. The rain lasted about two minutes as it usually does and then a rainbow surfaced on the ocean from end to end, an inspirational sight. At this point I was wearing a long-sleeve rash guard since I, as a towhead in the tropics, have had enough sun for the year. I don’t necessarily tan, you see; I go from pink to coral, but I ramble. Wildlife thrived on the reef, with the water clear enough to see the Reef Triggerfish, Butterflyfish, barracuda, needlefish et al, and as I dove under the waves it resembled nothing of Assateague, as much as I love our little pony-filled hamlet. To top it all off – to make this the most magical o...
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