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Cuisine

Cuisine - Articles


Duck confit, cherry compote hors d’oeuvre

Posted On: 10/16/14
Written By: Paul Suplee, CEC PCIII

Duck confit, cherry compote hors d’oeuvre It was a scene out of “Rambo IV,” or maybe I’m thinking “Terminator.” I rolled up to Route 589 just as those geese and ducks – those dreaded monsters - started waddling their way into incoming traffic. What ensued was nothing short of sheer terror. Buildings were ablaze, cars stacked in ditches while innocent bystanders were forced to cover the eyes of their offspring to prevent them from seeing the carnage forged by these fiery-eyed, feathered foes. They made their way across the road, nary a scratch on any of them, all the while laughing (In hindsight, I imagine they were honking and quacking) at the ensuing destruction. As I think about this, I shiver as I recall the traffic light falling on a new litter of puppies enjoying an innocent frolic around the pond. And then I woke up. I realized that I can’t imagine the geese being such a problem that we would even consider resorting to killing them to improve traffic conditions. Did I really r...
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Ceviche: ‘bright, vibrant and delicious’

Posted On: 10/9/14
Written By: Paul Suplee, CEC PCIII

This semester, I am teaching my way through the foods of America. In New England, we discover the fruits of cold weather: lobster, clams, cod, squash, pumpkin et al. As we move down the coast, and specifically into Eastern Shore cooking and Southern cooking (two of my absolute favorites), the buffets become noticeably more beige in theme. The frying of already-brown food makes for a fairly dull appearance on the plate, but that can quickly be elevated by adding some vine-ripened tomatoes, sweet corn and other wonderful local products. The south is where we see greens cooked to oblivion (I don’t let that happen here) and pies and more fried foods. Throw in some country ham for an addition of the week’s supply of salt and you have a winner. Now we are going through Florida’s distinct cuisine and, more accurately, Southern Florida’s Floribbean cuisine – a fusion of Latin, Caribbean and mainland foods. Obviously, seafood is of great importance to Florida...
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Suplee serves up Oreo pancakes, bacon

Posted On: 10/2/14
Written By: Paul Suplee, CEC PCIII

Suplee serves up Oreo pancakes, bacon In the hallowed halls of any culinary museum, you will find references to James Beard and Julia Child, their contributions to the world of food so far remaining unsurpassed. Are there chefs who are better than they were? Possibly, yes. But with their departure years ago, we’ll never know. They spoke to the masses at a time when few others were. They had a new voice and took cooking in a new direction: on television and onto the bookshelves on the mass level. Their poise, ideas, vast network of chefs and entertainers and their dedication to the craft were unparalleled as were their marketing skills. When I was a kid, I remember watching Julia Child and not really understanding what was going on. I respect everything that she was able to accomplish, but I was not a regular follower. James Beard was not a recognizable name for me until I went to culinary school in the 1980s, but TV’s “Galloping Gourmet” (Graham Kerr) was an early hero of mine. But that’s th...
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Squid ink pasta with celery-tomato essence

Posted On: 9/25/14
Written By: Paul Suplee, CEC PCIII

Squid ink pasta with celery-tomato essence There are times when something just strikes my fancy and today marked one of those spells. Walking through the kitchen after straightening out the walk-in, I remembered my days in Baltimore. I cooked in some good restaurants and one such place was the Polo Grill by Johns Hopkins University. The chef was very talented and the menu changed daily, a task that I personally would never undertake in an a la carte facility. We learned some great techniques at The Polo Grill and as I reminisced, I realized that I had not made squid ink pasta in years. Recalling that I now had the aforementioned cephalopod-goo on hand, it became a no-brainer. It was time to play. So, grabbing the 00 Flour and the squid ink, I headed for the nearest stand mixer. The flour is a special, finely ground product that lends itself well to pasta. If you make fresh pasta as much as I do, you will immediately tell the difference as the pasta from 00 flour will be tender and have a much smoother appearance. This flour ...
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Crabby pretzel, a salute to summer’s end

Posted On: 9/4/14
Written By: Paul Suplee, PCIII

Crabby pretzel, a salute to summer’s end Maybe I’m getting old.  I no longer feel the thrill of standing cheek by jowl with thousands of sweaty, sunburnt tourists in tribute to the end of summer; it just doesn’t seem as much fun as it was in youth.  Who knows?  Perhaps it’s just that I’m cranky thinking about the first day of school. Today is a stark reminder that the solar activity (heavy again this summer according to some meteorologists) is lending an eerie predictor to yet another brutal winter.  While I love the snow, I can forego the negative-10 temperatures with ease. One bright note is that I am returning to school refreshed for the first time in my six years of teaching.  Typically, I work full-time at the end of the school year in a side job in preparation for summer work.  This year, however, it was decided that I would not pick up any side work.  As such, I stayed at home, while not really getting much done.  It was a nice break. And now that thin...
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Working with parmesan, mahi and pesto

Posted On: 8/28/14
Written By: Paul Suplee, CEC PCIII

Working with parmesan, mahi and pesto There are times when we all just need a swift kick in the duff to get us off the couch, or out of wherever we may be in our head.  One such moment for me was last weekend as I sat languishing my decision to not participate in an endurance run in Ocean City. The run was a fundraiser for Save-a-Limb Foundation, a group that utilizes cutting-edge breakthroughs to help people with limb deformities who may not be able to afford reconstructive surgery and physical therapy.  Without these, often times the result is amputation. Our good friends have a child whose leg was significantly shorter than the other at birth.  And here he is, a toddler, with more major surgeries under his belt than most of us will have in our lifetime. My family is inundated at present, so I dropped out of this run a while ago, only to sit on my decision.  Finally, with less than five hours to go, I called some friends to see if I could still participate in the Custom GoRuck.  But I must ...
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Garlic knots perfect way to start meal

Posted On: 8/14/14
Written By: Paul Suplee, CEC PCIII

On the road with family this week for our mini-vacation, we stopped to get some lunch.  Seeing a sign for New York Style Pizza, we knew we had to go.  It was just the respite that we needed, and starting off with the garlic knots was the perfect way to bring everyone back from the hunger-fueled fighting that so often happens with kids in cramped quarters. Family vacations are still some of the greatest memories from my youth.  I still remember the feeling of headed up to the Skyline Drive for our four-week summer hiatus in the back seat of the Polara station wagon; as the youngest three of eight children, we weren’t given the option and only when someone vomited from the backwards motion were they granted passage to the middle seat or, god forbid, to the middle of the front seat between Mom and Dad. Oh, the memories.  When Dad would get upset at our rambunctious behavior, we would be instructed to place our hands on the back of his seat.  For hours.&nbs...
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Kale salad great summer menu addition

Posted On: 8/7/14
Written By: Paul Suplee, CEC PCIII

Kale salad great summer menu addition My Assateague permit just expired and I just may have to get it renewed. There’s something fantastic about a drive-on bonfire, dinner, the roar of the ocean and the ghost crabs. The squeals and squeaks of the children abound as they finally find the translucent little white beasts who in their retreat turn and make chase of their own. Instead, I sit at home and grab a bowl of kale salad, a new addition to my arsenal. Introduced to me by my sister-in-law, it is sweet, tart, crunchy, soft and just about everything in between. I was admittedly hesitant to try it; after all, how good could raw kale be? Quickly blanched in some salted water, the kale is cooled and then tossed with myriad fruits and vegetables and becomes a powerhouse; a high-anit-oxidant snack and side dish. Perfect for the beach and the pool, this salad is fantastic. Paired with a Dream Machine IPL (yes, lager) from Rita’s, it’s a match made in heaven. Now, for those of you in the know, you underst...
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Dry-aged steak with bone marrow butter

Posted On: 7/31/14
Written By: Paul Suplee, CEC PCIII

Dry-aged steak with bone marrow butter It was the best of times, it was the worst of times, it was the age of wisdom, it was the age of foolishness, it was the epoch of belief, it was the epoch of incredulity, or mayhap it was simply the season of plagiarism.  The muddled thoughts of my mind make it difficult to discern what has been stolen and that which is unique. As it stands, I am wrestling with what could be the greatest culinary day of my life.  The triumvirate of taste.  The mêlée of meal-esque monsters.  I am not in L.A.; I am not in New Orleans, that city about which I have written much on my culinary travels.  No; I am in Kansas City. Strolling through the wily streets of Missouri during the ACF national convention, a friend of mine and I happed upon a butcher shop / bar with a façade reminiscent of Baltimore in the 80s.  An old brick grocery store from 1898, it had all of the potential that most of us dreamers find existential.  As my luck with finding great vit...
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Serving up summer strawberry shortcake

Posted On: 7/10/14
Written By:

Serving up summer strawberry shortcake Every now and then, the near-100 degree temperatures merit a little outside-time.  I don’t mind sweating a little since it means that I have a good deal of the season left; we get a little reprieve from the minus-10 degrees that graced our shores a mere few months ago.  And, let’s be honest, taking my first summer off since 1983 has been a nice respite to catch up on things. An assortment of music plays in the background, and the gentlest breeze blows across my back porch.  The only note of interest today is the pile of tree pieces from what is apparently the only tree to have fallen in the lamest hurricane in Ocean City history: Arthur.  And of course it fell in my yard.  So it goes when you live at the beach where root balls are 2 feet deep and 10 feet around.  Where else would a tree go but down? Tonight feels like it will be a good night for one of my favorite cakes from the days of yore; the halcyon days of ignorant, blissful youth. ...
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